An unspoilt gem and a day on the bay

Russell- an unspoilt gem of a town a short ferry journey across from Pahia and the Breakwater Motel, where we are staying. It's quiet waterfront is a mix of old buildings serving as restaurants, cafes, private homes and a museum. But it wasn't always so. Following James Cook's  visit in 1769, whalers, sailors traders and missionaries soon met and mingled here, earning it the soubriquet "Hell hole of the Pacific" from Charles Darwin, on his way to the Galapagos. The town was the first capital of NZ, but only for ten months when Auckland became the capital before Wellington took over a few years later.
After the Maori/ British signing of the treaty at Waitangi the Maori became disillusioned with their treatment at the hands of the Brits, and in 1840 local Maori chief Hone Heke cut down the flagstaff flying the Union Flag above the town no less than four times.
The lower half of the current flagpole is metal, but the upper is the last pole to be cut down.

This led to the sacking of the town, but, because he was Christian, Hone Heke spared the church and the Catholic Mission, and it was some years before the town was rebuilt.
The museum is well worth visiting, containing a one fifth replica of James cook's Endeavour, and many artifacts from those days.
We enjoyed a superb dinner at a waterfront restaurant with the setting sun in the background, followed by a leisurely walk back to the ferry home.



The R. Tucker Thompson is Northland's iconic tall ship, which sail daily around the Bay of Islands. She was originally built here to take part in the bi-centennial sailing from Portsmouth to Australia and NZ with the first settlers from England.
A sail training vessel that takes youngsters on week long adventure training, in the summer it sails the bay daily taking tourists. Anne and I joined the ship for the day, sailing from Russell. A two masted topsail schooner, she has three squares on the foremast, two jibs, a gaffsail on the foremast, and a mainsail and a gaff staysail on the mainmast.

We had the opportunity to set the sails, climb the mast, and steer the ship through the islands to a beach, where most took the opportunity to have a swim before lunch and the sail home.
A pleasant day relaxing, as the wind was variable to say the least, but when the sun came out Anne took the opportunity to top up her tan!.





















We have had a very relaxing few days here in the Breakwater Motel, a lovely view from the balcony, newly renovated modern facilities, and interesting surroundings to take in. Today we have visited the Waimate Mission, one of the oldest surviving houses in NZ. Originally part of an English village created to fulfil the dream of the Rev Samuel Marsden, he established a Church Missionary Society farm here to grow wheat, and to train Maori to farm.
Built in 1831, the mission is the sole survivor of the village, with the exception of the Church next door, still in use today. Many interesting gravestones surround the church, including those of the early incumbents
All good things must come to an end, tomorrow we leave the idyllic Bay Of Islands for a day in Auckland, I think we could be back here.