Fruit Bats and Captain Billy

As we left Seisha this morning (rather reluctantly- a bit later than we had anticipated!) we called in at the Bamago bakery for a couple of their delicious pies and buns for lunch. We had some the day before and were tempted again, they were so good!

The Main road south was our target, back to the Jardine River ferry. As we got there we watched as a road train was taken across- one trailer at a time. This entailed the driver taking each trailer then retuning for the next. We watched as one was loaded- it only just got on the ferry, and the bit at the back was hanging over the ramp. But- even more complicated- he had to take the connecting wheels across separately, meaning about five journeys in all to get the whole lot across.

Onward down to our first destination- Fruit Bat Falls. This entailed a foray of a few ks off the main road, down a track to a car park. A short walk took us to the falls, which I have to say were not as exciting as some we have seem, but quite nice. People were swimming in the pool below, but as it was a cooler day today we declined to join them.

Back to the main road and then along the old telegraph track, which was cut through the bush in the early 1900s to service the first telegraph wire than went all the was from Sydney to Port Moresby in Papua New Guinea. It is very basic, rarely maintained, and occasionally we came across one of the telegraph poles which are no longer in use- microwaves have superseded them.

We had been warned about a deep creek crossing, and had decided to mask our car before attempting to cross. Unfortunately, due to a bit of faulty map reading we mistook it for an easier one and plunged in without the mask.. Hmmm… water came up to the top of the bonnet, but we were committed, once in you have to keep going! But she made it through with a bit of gurgling from the exhaust. Good old Betty!

Eventually we came to Elliott falls, now this one was better. Not so much the pool below, not really accessible, but the water dropped into rather a nice gorge, which continued on as far as we could see. We followed it down a way, and came to a small tributary of the Elliott river, with a series of falls. At each stage were swimming holes, easily accessible, very nice. We had lunch there, before making our way back along the telegraph track to the main road.

We had decided to stay the night at Captain Billy’s landing, about 70k down the main road and some 40k off, so a couple of hours later, after an exciting journey along the track down and past some great views, we arrived there.

It was named in 1880 by an explorer who met an Aborigine who called himself Captain Billy, and who brought him here for a good landing spot.

We pitched our tent right on the beach, in a bush camp- that is- no facilities other than a deep drop toilet, no water- nothing. It was idyllic! There were a couple of other intrepid travelers there, but the only sound was that of the waves to lull us to sleep. We washed up in sea water, (keeping a wary eye out for the crocs!), and enjoyed the company of our neighbours for an hour or two- it’s a hard life……….